Episode 8: Volcanic Wines

Welcome to August at Blackthorn! This month we’re exploring Wine in the Wild — natural, minimal intervention wines that feel earthy, grounded, and pure. And today, we’re diving deep into one of the most elemental expressions of terroir: volcanic wine.

Our featured bottle is the 2021 Donnafugata Sul Vulcano Etna Bianco, a white wine grown on the legendary volcanic slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily. It’s a story of fire and earth, ancient grape varieties, and winemakers who listen closely to the land.

The Wine: Donnafugata Sul Vulcano Etna Bianco 2021

“Sul Vulcano” means “On the Volcano,” and this wine wears that name proudly. Donnafugata is a Sicilian icon, known for blending tradition and modernity with a deep connection to place. The estate’s name — “woman in flight” — nods to a local legend of freedom and strength, perfectly embodied by this striking label showing a fiery red-haired woman rising from flames.

The Etna Bianco is primarily made from Carricante, a late-ripening, high-acid white grape that thrives in the cool, mineral-rich volcanic soils on Etna’s northern slopes. The 2021 vintage delivers vibrant notes of lemon peel, green apple, and mountain herbs, with a subtle touch of flint and smoke — like a match lit in a citrus grove. It’s focused, clean, and textural — a wine that feels alive.

What Makes Volcanic Wine So Unique?

Volcanic wines come from some of the world’s most dramatic soils — from fresh lava flows to ancient ash deposits. These soils:

• Are rich in minerals like potassium, magnesium, and iron, which give wines a distinctive minerality and complexity.

• Have excellent drainage, forcing vines to struggle and concentrate flavors.

• Impart flavors described as salty, smoky, or flinty, along with bright acidity and great aging potential.

Though volcanic soils cover just 1% of the Earth’s surface, the wines they produce span the globe — from Mount Etna in Sicily to Santorini in Greece, Soave in Italy, volcanic hills in Hungary, the Canary Islands, and the Azores. Many of these vineyards sit on rugged, remote landscapes where hand farming is essential.

Carricante & Other Volcanic Grape Varieties

Carricante is Sicily’s signature white grape on Etna — late-ripening, with bright acidity and a minerally backbone reminiscent of Chablis but with a Sicilian soul. Elsewhere, volcanic terroirs nurture indigenous grapes like:

• Assyrtiko (Santorini, Greece), with its bracing acidity and smoky citrus.

• Garganega (Soave, Italy), delivering saline notes and floral aromatics.

• Juhfark and Furmint (Somló, Hungary), producing savory, textured white wines.

• Various red grapes on Etna such as Nerello Mascalese that express volcanic terroir through complexity and tension.

Food Pairings for Volcanic Wines

Etna Bianco and other volcanic whites are natural partners for:

• Seafood with salt, acid, and herbs — grilled shrimp with lemon and parsley, swordfish with capers, pasta with anchovies and olive oil.

• Roasted vegetables, goat cheese, and herby chicken dishes.

• And when it comes to mood, volcanic wines suit clear skies, sharp thoughts, solo journaling sessions, or planning your next rebellion — perfect for introspection or cliffside dinners.

The Story: Salvo Foti and the I Vigneri of Mount Etna

Mount Etna is more than a volcano — it’s a living, breathing force shaping land and people. The vineyards on Etna are not neat rows but scattered, ancient plots called contrade, where vines grow in fractured basalt, often trained as alberello (bush vines).

No one embodies Etna’s spirit more than Salvo Foti, a winemaker who left the commercial wine world to revive a centuries-old tradition: the I Vigneri guild of winemakers, originally formed in 1435. This group champions:

• Hand farming without chemicals or tractors.

• Maintaining ancient terraces built from dry-stacked lava stone.

• Respecting the unpredictability of Etna, treating the volcano as a partner, not an enemy.

For Foti and the I Vigneri, winemaking is an act of devotion, resistance, and preservation. Their wines carry the tension of ash and fire, the memory of generations, and a quiet but fierce refusal to conform.

Why Volcanic Wines Matter

In a world often dominated by industrial wine production, volcanic wines remind us of the wildness beneath the surface — raw, textured, and full of life. They demand patience, respect, and a willingness to listen to the earth.

As Salvo Foti says, “The best ingredient in a wine will always be the honesty of those who produce it.” Choosing volcanic wines is choosing to go slower, dig deeper, and trust in the fire that shapes the world beneath our feet.

🎧 Listen to the Episode

Discover the magic and mystery of volcanic wines, the story of Mount Etna, and the inspiring work of Salvo Foti and the I Vigneri in Episode 8 of Renegade: A Blackthorn Podcast. Available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and wherever you listen.