Nightcap 7: Blackthorn by the Glass - Bourgueil Rosé: Cabernet Franc’s Wild, Rare Side

Cabernet Franc might be best known as a supporting character in Bordeaux blends, but in the Loire Valley — and especially in the tiny appellation of Bourgueil — it gets the starring role. And when it takes a break from its deep, savory reds to show its lighter, pinker side? Well, that’s where things get interesting.

This week’s Blackthorn by the Glass features a rosé that’s as wild as it is elegant: the 2023 Domaine Audebert et Fils Bourgueil Rosé. It’s a wine that embodies the essence of Cabernet Franc while revealing an entirely different personality — bright, lifted, and unapologetically refreshing.

Bourgueil: A Loire Valley Hidden Gem

Nestled in the middle Loire, Bourgueil is one of just three notable red wine sub-regions in the area. It’s often lumped together with its neighbor Chinon, but Bourgueil has its own distinct identity.
Facing directly south, with forests shielding it from chilly north winds, the region enjoys a gentle microclimate thanks to the moderating Loire River. True to the French idea of terroir, Bourgueil’s wines express the soils they grow in:

• Gravelly, alluvial soils near the river produce lighter, fresher wines with red berry and licorice aromas.

• Tuffeau jaune limestone creates richer, spicier wines with savory notes like leather.

While Bourgueil is almost exclusively a red wine appellation, rosé production accounts for just 2–5% of output, making wines like this one rare and worth seeking out.

The Grape: Cabernet Franc (a.k.a. Breton)

Cabernet Franc has been part of Bourgueil’s story for more than a millennium. The Abbey of Bourgueil, founded in 990, is considered the birthplace of the region’s viticulture. Local legend credits Abbot Breton in the 17th century with popularizing the grape — hence the nickname “Breton.”

Today, AOC regulations require Bourgueil reds to be made almost entirely from Cabernet Franc (with up to 10% Cabernet Sauvignon allowed). For rosé, it’s nearly always pure Cab Franc, giving the wines their signature zippy acidity and spiced fruit character.

Domaine Audebert et Fils: Six Generations of Cabernet Franc

The Audebert family has been making wine in Bourgueil since 1839. Their 42-hectare estate spans Bourgueil, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, and Chinon, with vineyards planted on sand, gravel, siliceous clay, and clay-limestone soils — each lending its own nuance to the wines.

The 2023 Bourgueil Rosé comes from a 3-hectare parcel of 15-year-old vines. It’s made from 55% saignée (where juice is “bled off” from red wine production, adding depth) and 45% direct press, then fermented in stainless steel at cool temperatures for freshness. The wine skips malolactic fermentation, preserving its bright, mouthwatering acidity.

Tasting Notes

This is a rosé that’s both charming and complex:

• Aromas: Ripe strawberry, red cherry, grapefruit, orange zest, rose petals, and a dusting of white pepper.

• Palate: Round yet zesty, with red berry fruit, blood orange, spice, and a mineral edge.

• Structure: Dry, medium acidity, and perfectly balanced at 12.4% alcohol.

Food Pairings

Winemaker François Audebert suggests:

• Charcuterie boards

• White meats like roast pork or chicken

• Grilled meats and vegetables — especially at a summer BBQ, where the saignée structure stands up to smoky flavors.

Fun Cabernet Franc Facts

• Cardinal Richelieu is said to have brought Cabernet Franc cuttings to the Loire in the 1600s.

• By the 18th century, it had spread to Bordeaux’s Right Bank, influencing wines in Pomerol and Saint-Émilion.

• In Napa Valley, Cabernet Franc commands serious respect — and price. In 2022, it fetched an average of $10,419 per acre, more than Cabernet Sauvignon.

Why You Should Seek Out Bourgueil Rosé

Bourgueil rosé is a rare glimpse of Cabernet Franc’s playful side. If you love Loire Valley wines, crave something that can handle both delicate appetizers and bold barbecue, or simply want a rosé that breaks the mold, this bottle delivers. Domaine Audebert et Fils has crafted a wine that’s fresh, food-friendly, and deeply rooted in one of France’s most storied terroirs.

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